Okay, so an autumnal chill has settled in – and not just the nip from the the antics of the nutters in government. A parky breeze assailed me this morning – a lazy one that went through me instead of around me – which made me think of comfort food. (To be honest, there is very little in the way of food that I don’t find comforting …)
Toasted soda bread (home-made) or genuine sourdough loaf with marmalade? Cheese scones with damson chutney? Cheese on toast or succulent sausages (see abovementioned recommendations) with grandfather’s relish … Crisp-skinned jacket potatoes with mushroom chutney … Afternoon tea with madeira cake and peach and raspberry marmalade … salivating …
I am rather fond of a simple marmalade made from grapefruit shells and windfall apples. Eat the grapefruit flesh and freeze the shells until you or the windfalls are ready. I love pink grapefruit and use those shells – but you can mix the peel of any citrus fruit – oranges, limes, grapefruit, mandarins, tangerines, whatever takes your fancy.
2lbs/1 kg fallen cookers/green apples – tart in taste – washed.
4 grapefruit skins ( I add more – love the peel in marmalade.) Or any mix that you have.
Juice of one lemon, reserving the shell
1 tspn/5 ml ground ginger (Depending on what is to hand, I add chopped preserved ginger or grate some fresh ginger into the mix.)
3lbs/1.5 kg granulated sugar
Simmer the grapefruit shells and lemon halves in a pint/half litre of water till tender. It’s easer to slice/chop the peel this way, rather than before softening – and you don’t lose any of the zest. When the skins are softish and cool, slice or chop to your preferred size. I like chunky marmalade, others like the finely sliced version. Return to the pan.
Add the chopped apples, with the skin still on. Check for bruises and ‘visitors’ before you chop! Add to the pan and cook till tender.
Add the ginger and sugar. Cook for 20-30mins.
Bottle in sterilised jars.
4lbs/2kg damsons, washed
1.5lbs/3/4kg aples, cored
4 medium onions
1.5 ilbs/3/4 kg seedless raisins
1.5lbs/ 3/4kg demerara sugar
2 tblspns/30 ml sea or kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, crushed or chopped
1oz/25g allspice berries
1oz/25g fresh ginger root, grated
2 tspns/10ml cloves
Blitz the apples, onions and raisins till chopped – not to mush – in the food processor , or put them through a mincer. Or chop them.
Put the damsons, apples, onions, raisins in a pan with the vinegar and sugar, salt, rushed garlic and spices. Tie the spices in muslin if wished.
Simmer till thick. If any damson stones rise to the surface,you can take them out. Otherwise, leave them in, eat it outside and see who can spit the stones farthest. Not to be done in polite company.
Pot and seal.
I like spicy food, so often add some chillies. Fresh or dried, whatever I have in the kitchen.
2 ozs/50g butter
½ tspn/2.5 ml dry mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
8ozs/250g grated matured Cheddar
1 tblspn/15 ml whisky – more if you wish, just make sure it blends in properly.
Cream the butter, mustard powder, black pepper.
Beat in the cheese and whisky
Turn into small pots and cover with cling film (saranwrap).
Mature in the fridge for a few days.
Serve with hot toast, tasty sausages, and eat with your feet up in front of a hearty fire.
3lbs/1.5kg open mushrooms
1lb/500g cooking apples – green and sour – cored and quartered.
1/2 lb/250g onions, chopped
2oz/50g fresh ginger root, diced. You can wrap it in muslin if wished, or throw it in loose.
8oz/250g demerara sugar
3/4 pt/450ml white (wine) vinegar
1tblspn/15ml sea salt or kosher salt
½ tsp/2.5ml cayenne powder
1 tsp/5ml mustard powder
Bung all the ingredients in a pan, bring to the boil and then simmer, uncovered, for 90 minutes or so.
All the liquid should have evaporated – without burning the mushroom and apples …
If you wrapped the ginger, remove it. I love ginger, so I chuck it into the mix to enjoy.
Seal in jars/pots and seal with vinegar-proof covers.
Makes approx. 4lbs/2kg
Raspberry and Peach Marmalade
1lb/500g raspberries, fresh or frozen – but not those frozen with sugar
3.5 lbs/1.75kgs peaches, skinned and halved, stones cracked an kernels removed
Juice of one lemon (use the skin for the autumn marmalade! Or freeze till you need it.)
Put the fruit in a pan and cook very gently till tender – do not burn. Can take half an hour or more. Include the kernals wrapped in a bag – or chuck ‘e in. I eat them in the marmalade.
Add the sugar, stirring until dissolved.
Add the lemon juice and cook gently-briskly for 10 minutes or so. Do not burn! Watch and stir …
Drop a dollop on a cold plate to test for setting.
Rest for 7-8 minutes before potting in sterilised jars.
Should be about 6lbs/3kgs
***Do not mix the Imperial and Metric measures. The metric measures are rounded up for ease of use.***
***I don’t calculate the calorific values – such a killjoy practice! Just remember you should stop eating when you think you could manage a little more …***
I was about to make some autumn marmalade: I have grapefruit shells and lemons. I raided a friend’s garden for windfalls (our is small – no apple trees) BUT I do not have any blessed sugar …
I will strain and freeze the chicken stock instead.
autumn, marmalade, damsons, relish, mushrooms, peaches, raspberries