Haggis

“Haggis is kinda like a hotdog with a bad publicist,”

Craig Ferguson

 

Sorry, Scotland, yes, I know haggis is a beloved dish in your country, but culinary historians agree that its origins go to the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Romans invaded the British Isles, and took the recipe with them. The earliest Scottish recipe for haggis was printed in the 15^th century.

So for the rest of the world, just what is haggis? Well, hold on to your stomachs, and please don’t try to make this if you live in the city.

Though regarded since the mid-18th century as a distinctively Scottish dish, it was long popular in England, as English writer Gervase Markham (c. 1568–1637) testified in The English Huswife (1615). Its origin, however, is still more ancient, for Marcus Apicius, Aristophanes, and even Homer allude to dishes of similar composition. The derivation of the term haggis, first attested in the 15th century, is unknown.

But first, a bit more history. A Scottish food historian believed it to be an English creation, having discovered a cookery book published in 1615 for a “great chieftain o’ the puddin’ race.”

Haggis is inexpensive, savoury, and nourishing. In Scotland it formerly was considered a rustic dish and was so celebrated in Robert Burns’s lines “To a Haggis” (1786), but in the 21st century haggis is served with some ceremony, even bagpipes, particularly on Burns Night (held annually on January 25, Burns’s birthday) and Hogmanay, as the Scots call their New Year’s celebrations.

There are others who believe the proto-haggis was imported from Scandinavia by the Vikings between the 8^th and 13^th centuries. Walter Skeat recommended that the root, hag, may have been derived from haggw, which is Norse, or the Old Icelandic hoggva.

Tilly: Of course, hag is also an ugly old woman, e.g.”a fat old hag in a dirty apron”

If that history is not enough, enter the French – not surprised are you, Tilly? Hag is similar to the French verb hacher, which means “to chop or to mince.”

Tilly: Haggis is an ancient, dish and has been made worldwide by different cultures. It’s a myth that it is Scottish only. Thousands of years ago, hunters would cook-up the parts of the animal that needed eating first. Chopped fresh offal, mixed with cereal and herbs was cooked over a fire in the the obvious casing – the stomach. Many cultures made haggis from different animals, depending on the hunt.

So just when did it become Scottish? In 1513, haggis appears in a Scottish text, written by William Dunbar, a poet with the court of James VI. Some historians believe that it may have been in the 17^th century. You get the feeling that “haggis” is one of those historic dishes no one really wants to own up to!

Ask any Scotsman the question “What is a haggis?” and he’s likely to say, “It’s a small four-legged creature that lives in the Highlands and has two legs shorter than the others so it can run around the mountains without toppling over. It can easily be caught by running around the hill in the opposite direction.”

Apparently the national joke is backfiring somewhat. A recent on-line survey revealed that 30% of American tourists visiting Scotland thought a haggis was a wild animal. Nearly 25% believed they could catch one.

The Scots have many ways to mess with Sassenachs.

The reason is in the recipe: see below.

Traditional Scottish Haggis recipe [1856]

“Recipe from Lady Login

1 cleaned sheep or lamb’s paunch

2 lb (900g.) dry oatmeal

1 lb (450 g.) lamb’s liver, boiled and minced

1 lamb’s heart, boiled and minced

1 lamb’s lights boiled and minced

1 large finely chopped onion

1/2 teaspoon each: cayenne pepper, ground allspice, salt and pepper

1 pint (600 ml.) Stock

See that the paunch is well cleaned, then soak it in salt and water for about 2 hours, take out and let it dry. Put the oatmeal on a baking tray in a low oven and let it dry out and crisp up a little. Then cook the liver, heart (trimmed) and lights in salted water to cover and cook for about 1/2 hour. Strain, but reserve the stock, and chop the meats up finely, or mince. Mix all ingredients (except the paunch) together and season well. Then add the stock. Put into the cleaned paunch (fill to about half) and sew up loosely, but securely. Have ready a large pot of boiling water mixed with the rest of the liver stock, prick the haggis all over wirh a small knitting needle to prevent bursting, then cook in the water and stock, at a slow simmer uncovered, but keep up water level, for about 3 hours. Serves about 16.”

—Traditional Scottish Cookery, Theodora Fitzgibbon [Fontana Paperbacks: Bungay] 1980 (p. 140-1)

Haggis is usually accompanied by bashed neeps (swedes) and mashed potatoes (“tatties”); Scotch whisky is the customary drink. A friend’s husband is Sri Lankan and made the best bashed neeps ever. He didn’t serve mashed potatoes, but the diced version was simply delicious. I never found out what he added to them.

Alton Brown an American Chef gives us a truer version.

Level: Advanced

Total: 5 hr 42 min

Prep: 30 min

Inactive: 12 min

Cook: 5 hr

Yield: Depends on how much you throw

Haggis

1 sheep stomach

1 sheep liver

1 sheep heart

1 sheep tongue

1/2 pound suet, minced

3 medium onions, minced

1/2 pound dry oats, toasted

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried ground herbs

Directions

Rinse the stomach thoroughly and soak overnight in cold salted water.

Rinse the liver, heart, and tongue. In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook these parts over medium heat for 2 hours. Remove and mince. Remove any gristle or skin and discard.

In a large bowl, combine the minced liver, heart, tongue, suet, onions, and toasted oats. Season with salt, pepper, and dried herbs. Moisten with some of the cooking water so the mixture binds. Remove the stomach from the cold salted water and fill 2/3 with the mixture. Sew or tie the stomach closed. Use a turning fork to pierce the stomach several times. This will prevent the haggis from bursting.

In a large pot of boiling water, gently place the filled stomach, being careful not to splash. Cook over high heat for 3 hours.

Serve with mashed potatoes, if you serve it at all.

Olive: Hey, Tilly “if you serve it at all.” Love that line.

Tilly: Where is the cayenne in his recipe? A sauce with whisky makes it even better.

The haggis is versatile – and delicious. Some suggestions:

Haggis Lamb Kibbeh Burger – a McSween Haggis Recipe

500g minced lamb (or quorn mince)500g haggis/vegetarian haggis2 cloves of garlic, crushed1 tablespoon ground coriander1 tablespoon ground cuminsmall bunch parsley, choppedsmall bunch mint, chopped150g bulgar wheat

Soak bulgar with cold water for 10 minutes, drain and squeeze out excess water. Break up haggis and combine with minced lamb or Quorn mince. Add other ingredients and mix well using your hands. Shape into patties, chill for 30 minutes to firm up. Cook over a hot grill or on a grill pan till done.Serve on a fresh bun with salad and hummus.

Hot Cross Buns with Haggis Jam and Drunken Raisins – a McSween Haggis Recipe

The Buns:

2 Tablespoon Cold-Pressed Scottish Rapeseed Oil 50g Unsalted Butter 290ml Semi-Skimmed Milk 1 Egg, Beaten 500g Bread Flour 7g Dried Yeast 1 Teaspoon Ground Cinnamon 1 Teaspoon Ground Nutmeg 1 Teaspoon Salt 1 Tablespoon Caster Sugar

The Crosses: For The Crosses:

50g Plain Flour 50g Icing Sugar 1 Egg, Beaten

The Drunken Raisins:

For The Drunken Raisins:

100g Raisins100ml Peaty/Smoky Single Malt Whisky (Optional) 1 Star Anise

The Haggis Jam:

For The Haggis Jam:

150g MacSween Haggis (Meat Or Vegetarian Work Equally Well) 4 Garlic Cloves, Finely Diced 2 Tablespoon Dark Brown Sugar 2 Tablespoon Light Brown Sugar 2 Banana Shallots, Finely Diced ½ Teaspoon Dried Chilli Flakes 330ml Irn Bru (Or Cola) 100ml Apple Cider Vinegar

Method:

The Raisins: Warm the whisky with the star anise & 200ml water in a small saucepan. When it simmers, remove from the heat, add the raisins & cover and leave for at least an hour. Best left overnight in the fridge. When ready to use, discard the star anise & remove the raisins. (Don’t get rid of the mix – you have a perfect raisin-infused whisky syrup, perfect for desserts, coffees or cocktails.)

The Macsween Haggis Jam:

In a non-stick frying pan, over a high heat, fry the haggis, with no added oil until crispy & golden. Put the haggis onto a dry cloth or kitchen towel to absorb any excess oil.

Using the same pan, turn the heat down to medium & add a tablespoon of cooking oil and fry the diced shallots & garlic until soft, caramelised & golden brown. Add the chilli flakes, brown sugar & crispy haggis to the pan.

When the sugar melts, and the mix emulsifies, add the soda & vinegar & bring to the boil.

Leave to bubble for 5 mins or until reduced by half. The jam should coat the back of a tablespoon.

Turn off the heat & allow the jam to cool. Check seasoning once cool enough to taste.

Pour the jam into a sterilised jam jar with a sealable lid and store in the fridge for up to 3 days.

The Hot Cross Buns:

Pour the milk, oil & butter into a small saucepan & bring to the boil over a medium heat, then remove & leave until cool enough for you to comfortably leave your finger in the mix for 3 seconds.

Pour the yeast, salt, sugar, flour, cinnamon & nutmeg into an electric mixer & using the dough hook attachment, mix the dry ingredients, add the beaten egg & slowly pour in the warm milk mixture into the centre of the bowl until it’s fully mixed. Add the raisins & mix again for one minute. Cover the bowl in clingfilm & leave in a warm place to double in size. (This should take no longer than 1 hour 20mins).

Dust a clean work surface lightly with some excess bread flour. Tip out the dough & divide into 12 (or 16) evenly-sized pieces. Roll into balls & place in a lightly oiled, parchment lined, baking tray & cover with a clean, dry cloth to prove for another hour.

Pre-heat the oven to 215C. Glaze the buns with a beaten egg.

The Crosses:

In a small bowl, mix the plain flour & icing sugar with just enough water to form a paste, then pour the mix into a piping bag. Cut the piping bag at the bottom to create a small hole & pipe on the crosses to each bun. Allow to set for 5 minutes before baking in the oven for 25 minutes

Serve warm on a large communal platter along with a jar of Macsween haggis jam to liberally spread on the buns.

Try haggis with pasta – dice and saute the haggis with onions and garlic. Add a mix of mushrooms (lots!). Add a healthy slug of whisky (brandy if you prefer) and soured cream or mascarpone to taste. Add plenty of fresh herbs. Serve with pasta of your choice.

With any of these recipes, you will not be aware you are eating offal. Which I like and struggle to understand the aversion to it. It is also economical, very little waste, very little fat.Enjoy. Search ByJam & Drunken

“Address to a Haggis, which starts “Fair fa’ your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o’ the pudding race!”.

If, after reading this, you make this National Dish of Scotland, please, oh please, let us know what you think.

Olive and Tilly